Dumfries and Galloway

For our next adventure John planned a trip for us to Dumfries and Galloway in Southwest Scotland.  It was a complete surprise for CJ.

Our first stop was lunch in Kirkoswald at Souter's Inn.

Kirkoswald is the village where the poet Robert Burns was inspired to write his classic poem, Tam O Shanter.  In 1775, when he was 16 he spent a summer there with his grandparents.  His mother, Agnes Broun, was born and raised in the village.  His time in the village, inspired him to turn the local characters into an interesting story.  Douglas Graham, who rented a farm named Shanter, became Tam O' Shanter, John Davidson, owner of the cottage and the local shoemaker, or souter as it was known then, became Souter Johnnie, and Jean Kennedy, who ran a small inn with her sister, named Kirkton, became Kirkton Jean.   Many of the real people who inspired the characters in his classic poem Tam o’Shanter are buried in the Kirkoswald Auld Kirk.

Kirkoswald Auld Kirk

We were pleasantly surprised with the food, (thinking we were going to be eating "pub fare") and are still trying to figure out when we can stop back by to enjoy another meal.

We continued on down the road, still to CJ's surprise, as she wasn't sure if that was the end of the road trip or not.  John was playing into the whole surprise thing, pointing out that the place was also an inn and not just a restaurant.

We stopped a few times along the way to take pictures. (most of the sites were closed for the winter)

Crossraguel Abbey

We were driving and sightseeing when we saw another lighthouse.  John asked if we should go see it, well of course we should!  

Seeing that it is now a hotel, John asked if we should stay there tonight?!?  So that's the big surprise!  CJ has had a love of lighthouses for many many years and has always wanted to stay in one.  What a dream come true! 

Corsewall Lighthouse was designed by Robert Stevenson and built in 1815.  The lighthouse was automated in 1994 and is now monitored by the Northern Lighthouse Board.   The light still beams a warning for ships approaching the mouth of Loch Ryan as it has done for the past 185 years.  The dwelling house has since been converted into the four-star Corsewall Lighthouse Hotel.

We checked into our room where we had another surprise awaiting us.

We then headed out to explore the area.  Our first stop was The Killantringan Lighthouse.  

The Killantringan Lighthouse was built by David Stevenson in 1900, and served as a waypoint in the North Channel of the Irish Sea.  The the fog signal was discontinued in 1987 and the light was automated in 1988.  In 2005, it was decided that it was only serving as a waypoint and the light was permanently discontinued in January 2007.  The light keepers' house and the smaller adjacent cottage are let as self-catering holiday accommodations by the current owners.

Our next stop was the coastal village of Portpartrick.

The Portpatrick Hotel, built in 1905.

We headed back to the hotel to get ready for dinner.  We enjoyed an amazing dinner at the hotel.  

The next day we hit the road to explore more of the peninsula before heading to our next destination.

Our next stop was the Mull of Galloway, Scotland’s most southern point.

The view from the top of the cliff is amazing, with views looking to the West across to Ireland and looking South to the Isle of Man.

The Mull of Galloway Lighthouse, which stands 260 ft above sea level was built by Robert Stevenson, with work commencing in 1828 and taking two years to complete.  In 1971 it was converted to electric and was automated in 1988.  The dwelling house has since been converted into a vistor center.    

The Mull of Galloway was an incredible sight to see and goes on our "Favorite Places in Scotland" list.

Our next stop was to see the Glenluce Abbey.  Glenluce Abbey was a Cistercian monastery.  It was founded around 1190 by Rolland (or Lochlann), Lord of Galloway and Constable of Scotland.  Following the Scottish Reformation in 1560, the abbey fell into disuse.

Our next stop was for lunch at Marrbury Smokehouse Bistro and Shop, which happen to be beside of the Carsluith Castle at Wigtown Bay.

Carsluith Castle is a ruined tower house, dating largely to the 16th century.

We enjoyed our lunch and purchased some smoked cheese and meats for the road.

Our next stop was just up the road to the Cairnholy Chambered Cairns.  The cairns are situated on a hill offering fine views over Wigtown Bay.  

There are two remarkably complete Neolithic burial cairns.  It was amazing to think that these were tombs from 4000 - 6000 yrs ago. 

We only visited Cairn Holy I, as it was getting very windy and starting to snow.

A bridge along our route

The next stop was a drive by The Cardoness Castle.

Cardoness Castle is a well-preserved 15th Century tower house, owned by the MacCulloch family of Galloway.

Our last stop for the day was Dumfries, where we spent the night.

Robert Burns Statue and Greyfriars Church.

We got up the next morning and hit the road, heading to Caerlaverock Castle, 6.8 miles south of Dumfries. 

Caerlaverock Castle is a moated triangular castle built in the 13th century, as a stronghold of the Maxwell family.  It was besieged by the English during the Wars of Scottish Independence, and underwent several partial demolitions and reconstructions over the 14th and 15th centuries. In the 17th century, the Maxwells were named Earls of Nithsdale, and built a new lodging within the walls, described as among the most ambitious early classical domestic architecture in Scotland.  In 1640 the castle was besieged for the last time and was subsequently abandoned.

This earlier castle is also found at Caerlaverock about 660 feet to the south.  This castle was square in shape and was one of the earliest stone castles to be built in Scotland.  It had a moat with a bridge facing north.  Only the foundations and remains of a wooden enclosure around it remain.  The castle may have been incomplete when it was abandoned in favor of a rock outcrop at the new location.

The weather was really cold and rainy, quickly turning to snow, 

(as you can see the raindrops on the camera lens.) so we decided to end our trip here and head straight back home. 

Despite the weather it was a great weekend, one we sure won't forget anytime soon!

Look for our next blog coming out soon (hopefully) about our winter break to The Seychelles Islands.   

Cheers,

John and CJ

Life in the UK

Since we had no travel adventures to share for the month of January we decided to do something a little different.  We have decided to answer some of the questions we have gotten since moving here a year and a half ago.  

A lot of you have asked about the town we live in, and we realized that we haven't really given you much info on Helensburgh.

Helensburgh was founded in 1776 when Sir James Colquhoun of Luss built spa baths on the site of Ardencaple Castle.  He then had a seaside resort town constructed to the east of the spa and named it after his wife Helen.  He established a ferry service across the Firth of Clyde to Greenock to attract residents who could commute from jobs there to attractive homes in the new town.  Helensburgh became a favorite place of residence for shipping tycoons and tobacco merchants from Glasgow.  At one point the small town had one quarter of Britain's millionaires living there.
In 1808, Henry Bell bought the public baths and hotel, which his wife managed while he continued his interest in early steamboats like the North River Steamboat which Robert Fulton had just introduced at New York City.  To improve hotel trade, he had the paddle steamer Comet constructed and in 1812 introduced Europe's first successful steamboat service, bringing passengers down the River Clyde from Glasgow to Greenock and Helensburgh.

Henry Bell Monument

With a population around 14,000, Helensburgh today acts as a commuter town for nearby Glasgow, and is a popular destination for day trippers.  The town is conveniently located just across the hill from Scotland's natural treasures of Loch Lomond and the Trossach's National Park and serves as a gateway to the Highlands and western isles.  A 2006 survey found Helensburgh to be the 2nd most expensive housing market in Scotland.  Today the town is heavily influenced by the presence of the Clyde Naval Base at Faslane on the Gare Loch, a major local employer.

Helensburgh has produced or inspired more than their fair share of talented and historical people, 75 of them at the last count, and rising.

John Logie Baird was born on 14 August 1888 in Helensburgh.  Baird was a Scottish engineer, innovator and inventor of the world's first mechanical television; the first publicly demonstrated color television system; and the first purely electronic color television picture tube.  Baird's early technological successes and his role in the practical introduction of broadcast television for home entertainment have earned him a prominent place in television's history.

John Logie Baird Monument

In 1903, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, a notable Scottish Architect, Artist, and Designer, built the Hill House for the publishing tycoon Walter Blackie.  The house, on Colquhoun Street on the north edge of town, is one of the best examples of his style, with surprisingly modern interiors incorporating furniture which he designed.  It is now owned by the National Trust for Scotland and is a popular tourist attraction.

The Hill House

Other Notable Residents:
Deborah Kerr - actress
Andrew Bonar Law - Prime Minister, 1922-23
WH Auden - poet and writer
Helen McInnes - novelist
AJ Cronin - novelist
Emma Sanderson - youngest person to sail around the world alone, in 2002-03
Cecil Day-Lewis - Poet Laureate from 1968 to 1972
As well as many other British actors, athletes, politicians and scholars.

Our Life in Helensburgh
We rarely ever drive in Helensburgh, the walk to town centre is 1/2 mile and to the train station 3/4 mile.  Our car sometimes sits for 2 weeks before we drive it again.   

 

Our view as we head out for our walk to town.

At the bottom of the hill is The Commodore Hotel.  We enjoy dinner and drinks in the restaurant and pub during the winter, and drinks and sunshine in the beer garden in the summer.

The waterfront has just received a makeover, making it a lovely walk into town. 

Colquhoun Square is the city centre and host various events throughout the year, such as summer and winter festivals and craft and farmers markets.

Eating Out in Helensburgh
Some of our favorite restaurants and pubs.
The Garth
The Garth is a great place to have pre-dinner drinks, and for a casual lunch on weekends.  The menu is very casual with BBQ, burgers and hot dogs.

The Henry Bell 

The Henry Bell is a Wetherspoon Pub. (A very popular chain here in the UK)  Their menu consist of the usual pub fare, fish and chips, bangers and mash, macaroni cheese, sandwiches and curries.

The Logie Baird
The Logie Baird is one of our favorite places to watch sports, listen to some live music and have lunch on the weekends.  Their menu is a blend of traditional pub food, with bbq, burgers, burritos and fajitas.

The Riverbank
The Riverbank is a great place to pop in for lunch or dinner, we enjoy their pizzas and calzones.

La Barca
La Barca (Voted the best Mediterranean restaurant in all of Scotland in 2014) is a Spanish tapas and wine bar.  It's a great place to go with a group of friends, as you can get a table full of small plates and try a bit of everything.

Mira Mare
Mira Mare is our favorite place to dine out in Helensburgh.  It is an Italian restaurant with an international flair.

The Ashton
The Ashton Pub is our favorite pub in Helensburgh.   After only a few visits we felt welcomed and right at home.  We've had many great nights out and made a lot of new friends there.

Hanging out with friends and owner, Euan and Lynne after winning CAMRA Pub of the year 2014.

There are many other dining options in town, Indian, Chinese, cafes, fish and chips (chippy), takeaways and of course a Subway sandwich shop.

Shopping in Helensburgh
As for shopping in downtown we have 2 clothing department stores, Wilkies and M&Co, a few boutique style shops, a hardware/home store, Boots Pharmarcy and several other pharmacies,  Semi-Chem and Superdrug (health and beauty stores), Co-Op food store, a Tecso Metro (smaller grocery) WHSmith Bookstore, 3 butchers, a poulterer and fishmonger, a fresh produce shop, Clarks Shoes, an Outdoor (clothing) shop, Sporting goods shop, and a lot of charity shops (thrift stores).

We do most of our grocery shopping local, stopping by the butchers to pick up fresh sausages, pork and haggis, seafood at the Fishmongers, and fresh veggies and eggs at the produce shop.  When we need more clothing options we hop the train to Glasgow or we shop while we are on travel.  Our biggest purchases have been shoes, boots, jackets and coats.  Moving to an extremely different climate we have learned a lot about footwear and outerwear.  Who knew that you didn't just buy them because they were cute?

You asked, we answered! 

What is the food like? 
A "Full Scottish Breakfast" consists of fried eggs, grilled tomato, mushrooms, potato scone, haggis, black pudding, toast, bacon, sausage and baked beans.
Breakfast sandwiches are very popular (and delicious).  They are served on a large soft roll or bap, bun, hob, stottie, or nudger depending on where you are in the UK.  It is kind of like subs, hoagie, grinder, etc. in the US.
Pancakes are generally served as a dessert, not breakfast and are usually bought pre-made in the bread section.
French Toast is called eggy bread.
Coffee is usually instant and if it is brewed coffee it is made in a cafetiere/french press.
Traditional restaurants are "pub-style" dining.  You order your drinks and food at the bar and pay when you order.  However there are many full service restaurants as well.
Sunday Roasts are a very popular British tradition.  It consist of roasted meat, roast potato or mashed potato, Yorkshire pudding, (a puff pastry) stuffing, vegetables and gravy.
In the bigger cities you can get a variety of restaurants similar to US cities.  Smaller towns offer more pubs and takeaways.  US fast food restaurants are popping up all along the motorways and around shopping centers.  (McDonalds, Burger King, KFC, Dominos, Pizza Hut, Subway) Now if they would only bring us a Taco Bell.
British food is more free range with less preservatives.
Mixed drinks and wines are measured and served by ml.  Wine comes in small, medium and large sizes.  When ordering a mixed drink you would order your spirit, then your mixer separate, they are serve in separate glasses for you to mix yourself.
Beer is served by pint and half pint, and contrary to popular belief it is served cold.

Cost of Living difference?
The cost of living is higher here than in the US.  The current exchange rate is about 1.53 dollars to the pound and generally things cost about the same in pounds here as they do in dollars in the US so you are paying 1.53 times more.  There is a lot of variation to that though depending on the product.  VAT (sales tax) is 20% on most products which adds to the cost difference.  Petrol(Gasoline) is a lot higher here, it costs about £1.24/liter which is $7.17/gallon

Do people wear kilts all the time?
Kilts are considered formal wear and are typically worn to weddings and formal events. unless at a Highland games or festival.  You will see the occasional bagpipe street performer in Glasgow or Edinburgh wearing a kilt.

How is the driving?
Driving on the left-hand side of the road and right-hand side of the car takes some getting used to.  The first week is very scary, particularly at the numerous round-a-bouts they have here.  The more you drive the easier it gets.  Many of the roads are smaller, parking spaces are smaller, thankfully the cars are generally smaller too.  You can drive for a year on your US license before you have to get your UK license.  Getting a drivers license here is a bit more difficult than in the US.  It is a three part test; written theory, hazard recognition, and practical driving.  The rules are a little different than ours so lessons are virtually mandatory to pass, particularly when you have been driving for 25+ years and have to overcome your bad habits.  The cost of getting a license is much higher as well.

Most frustrating?
The most frustrating things we have encountered:
 US banking rules for international transfers.
US websites blocking our use because we are in the UK, not allowing us to pay bills while we are out of the country.
 Businesses in the UK are not as web-savvy, so getting information can be tricky.
Not being able to find a product and trying to figure out the British name for it.

What are the biggest misunderstandings you've encountered because of accent or language?
It is easy to get past the normal language differences like boot for trunk, bonnet for hood, rubbish for garbage, and lift for elevator.  There are a few things that can really trip you up though.  First and foremost, never use the word "fanny" here.  It doesn't mean the same thing as it does in the US and you may see someone get really offended.

John's first embarrassment occurred when talking about fly fishing with coworkers.  They were talking about appropriate clothing for the rainy environment, and he mentioned that would not be a problem since he had waterproof pants.  Unfortunately, what we call pants the Brits call trousers and what they call pants we call underwear.  So in effect, waterproof pants would be like Depends undergarments.  It took him a while to figure out why they were laughing.

Accents
There are many accents across the UK, just like the US, and some are hard to understand at first.  After a while you get used to them and it just becomes natural.
We have come across many people here who have commented on our "accent."  They tend to like the American accent and we have been told that it is quite posh or elegant.  (we try not to laugh about that)  At first we could not figure out why they had no problems understanding our accents as we did theirs.  We soon came to realize that they have a lot of American television shows and are more use to hearing our accents than we are theirs.
We have found that most everyone here like Americans and are intrigued to find out where we are from (most popular questions is are you from Canada?) and why we moved here. (our favorite response is "for the weather.")

Translation List
aubergine = eggplant        courgette = zucchini
puddings = desserts      fizzy drinks = soda
bucks fizz = mimosa       lemonade = sprite/7up
 sweet biscuit = cookie     savory biscuit = cracker
bangers = sausages      chips  = fries
crisps = chips      candy floss = cotton candy
caravan = camper     marquee = canopy/tent
pants = underwear      trousers = pants
trainers = sneakers      chemist = pharmacist
lift = elevator    garden = yard
fancy = fondness  for      do = party
gutted = disappointed    hire = rent
flat = apartment      holiday = vacation
boot = trunk      bonnet = hood
       the tip = the dump      bin liner = trash bag
wheelie bin = garbage can     rubbish = garbage
lorry = semi-truck       coach = bus
joiner = carpenter      lay-by = roadside parking
pavement = sidewalk      motorway = highway
cooker or hob = stove         trolley = cart
flytipping = dumping      fag = cigarette
A&E = ER     concession = senior discount

Where would be your favorite place to take visitors?
When we have visitors we like to give them a what we call a "Wee taste of Scotland" tour.  We don't normally take them all on the same tour, but we try to show them a bit of everything, including a castle, a distillery, a cathedral or priory, mountains and lochs.  If there is one place we think that everyone should visit while in Scotland, it has to be Edinburgh.  Edinburgh is the Capital of Scotland and is rich in history, culture and shopping.

Television and Music
We get a lot of the same US TV shows here in the UK.  We can still watch CSI, Criminal Minds, Two & a Half Men, Big Bang Theory and Mike & Molly to name a few.  We do however miss watching American Football, Amazing Race and Survivor.
Music in the UK is very similar as in the US, as the two countries music scenes have been always been intertwined.   The biggest difference would be that there is much less country music in the UK. (which is perfectly fine with us)

Holidays celebrated in the UK

Bank holidays
Bank holidays are public holidays in the United Kingdom, when banks and many other businesses are closed for the day.  There are 2 spring and 2 summer bank holidays.

Burn's night
 Burns Night is a celebration of the life and poetry of the poet Robert Burns.  The suppers are normally held on or near the poet's birthday, 25 January, consisting of haggis, neeps, tatties and Scotch whisky.

We attended the Burn's night celebration at The Ashton Pub, complete with a scotch tasting, a haggis, neeps and tatties dinner and a performance by a local dancer.

Easter
The UK, which follows the Gregorian calendar, celebrates Easter on the Sunday following the first full moon that occurs after the first day of spring.

Halloween
Halloween is not as popular in the UK as it is in the US.  They do like to get dressed up in "fancy dress" (costumes) but trick-or-treating is not a common event here for the children.

Guy Fawkes Night
Guy Fawkes Night, also known as Guy Fawkes Day, Bonfire Night and Firework Night, is an annual commemoration observed on 5 November.  Its history begins with the events of 5 November 1605, when Guy Fawkes, a member of the Gunpowder Plot, was arrested while guarding explosives the plotters had placed beneath the House of Lords.  Celebrating the fact that King James I had survived the attempt on his life, people lit bonfires around London, and months later the introduction of the Observance of 5th November Act enforced an annual public day of thanksgiving for the plot's failure.

Christmas
Christmas is celebrated in very much the same way as the in the US, with a family dinner on the 25th.  Dinner would traditionally be a roast turkey with all the trimmings.  One tradition we found to be different is the Christmas Crackers. These are pulled, and create a wee 'bang' and inside is a variety trinkets such as a joke, a wee toy or gift and the inevitable paper hat. EVERYONE sits though Christmas Dinner wearing a silly paper hat!

Boxing Day
Boxing Day is a holiday traditionally celebrated the day following Christmas Day, when servants and tradesmen would receive gifts, known as a "Christmas box", from their bosses or employers

Hogmanay
Hogmanay is the Scottish version of New Year's Eve.  It is normally a 3 day celebration that starts on 31 December and lasts through to the morning of 2 January. (which is a Scottish Bank Holiday)

  What do we miss about the US?
We miss our family and friends in the US most of all, but here are a few other things that we do miss while living abroad.
Fishing, boating, Florida winters, Sunday brunch, having a suntan year around, American sized refrigerators and appliances, having electrical outlets in the bathrooms and Thanksgiving celebrations.
There are also a few food items that we miss;
Taco Bell, Rold Gold pretzels, ranch dressing, Saltine crackers, flavored coffee creamer, Funyuns, buttermilk biscuits, iced tea, lemonade and American beef.

What will we miss about the UK when returning back to the US?
We will definitely miss train hopping, and the public transportation options available in the UK.   As for food we would miss the local cheeses, beer, fish and chips, haggis, steak pies and the fresh sausages.  Most of all we will miss the people and the beautiful scenery.

Whew, that's a lot of information to digest so we will finish this for now.  We hope that we have answered all of your questions and that you have enjoyed the deeper look into our lives while living abroad.

Sending much love to our family and friends,
John and CJ